Shubh Aaramb – Travel to Chamundi Hills (25th Jan 2014)

What better way to start the travel section, than with a visit to Chamundi Hills. The home for the patron deity of Mysore, Chamundeshwari. There are rich mythological stories associated with this place, some of which will be shared in this post.

Our travel party comprised of Pratap, his better half Lokeshwari and me. Pratap and Loki are regular visitors to the Chamundeshwari temple. I tagged along this time as it was quite some time since I visited the place and I did not have any other plans for the Saturday. Also, I didn’t want to miss out on the (sadistic) pleasure of watching Pratap “Exercise”.

The distance between Bangalore and Chamundi hills is around 155 kms. We had decided to drive down and started the journey early in the day at 5:30 AM to avoid the weekend traffic towards Mysore. We had pit stops at Ramanagara for veggie shopping & at Kamath Lokaruchi for breakfast. After a leisurely drive, we finally reached the base of the hill around 10:00 AM.

The height of the hill is 3488 feet or around 1000 meters above the sea level. To reach the summit, you can either drive down a long winding road or take the stairway of 1008 steps. The first half of around 600 steps are little steeper than the rest. The overall ascent is relatively easy and one should reach the top in 30-45 mins. However, the difficulty level was increased this time around as Pratap and Loki wanted to perform “Mettalu Puja”; i.e. apply Arishina Kukuma ((turmeric & vermilion)to all steps leading up to the temple. Remember the “Exercise”…he he he. Thus, the uphill journey, which should have taken 45 mins took around 2 ½ hours.

The longer ascent actually worked out to my advantage. The stairway cuts through Chamundi Hills reserve forest and I got an opportunity to spot and identify a few birds (the winged ones not the two legged ones…what were you thinking?). The birds are used to the people and you can get quite close to most. My birding list for Chamundi Hills was as follows.

• Red Vented Bulbul
• Purple Sunbird
• Indian Roller
• Black Drongo
• Oriental Magpie Robin
• Rose Ringed Parakeet

I also spotted a few more birds that I was not able to identify.

Once we reached the top, we had a quick darshan of the goddess Chamundeshwari. We rested for a few minutes and quenched our thirst with tender coconuts. The descent was quite a breeze and in spite of the Pratap and Loki’s aching muscles, we were able to climb down in 30 mins.

By then, Loki was famished as she had had a very light breakfast and we proceeded to have lunch at Kamath Madhuvana. Pratap just had a lime soda as he wanted to eat at Empire, on the drive back. Accordingly, we had a further pit stop to have our old favourites, Kerala Parata, Ghee Rice and Panner Butter Masala at Empire. Being the glutton that I am, I had a hearty lunch at both the places. We drove back, again at a leisurely pace and we reached home by 6:00 PM.

The only thing that marred the otherwise happy trip was Pratap accidentally driving over a huge boulder. This resulted in a big dent to car door at the driver’s side and damaged the fender causing him to be a little subdued in spirits on the drive back. L

Now, as promised, some stories on mythology.

Formation of Shakti Peeta

As most of you are aware, Shiva was married to Sati, much against her father Daksha’s wishes. To spite Shiva, Daksha held a big yajna and invited all gods except Shiva & Sati. Nevertheless, Sati went to attend the yajna, despite Shiva imploring her not to do so. At the yajna, Daksha ridiculed Shiva calling him a vagabond, beggar and unfit to marry a princess. Unable to tolerate such insults being heaped on her beloved husband and aghast at her father’s boorish behaviour; Sati immolated herself by jumping into the sacred fire.

When the news of Sati’s death reached Shiva, he was overcome with rage. To seek vengeance, he created Veerabhadra & Kali who proceed to wreck havoc at the yajna and killed all those who mocked Shiva and decapitated Daksha.  In grief, Shiva carried the burnt body of Sati and broke into the Tandava. During this celestial dance of destruction, some parts of Sati’s body fell to earth at 51 different places. A Shakti Peeta was formed at each of these places. It is said that Sati’s hair fell on top of Chamundi hill, lending divinity to the place.

About the Temple

Mysore, derives its name from Mahishasura, the demon king who once ruled over the land. After performing severe penance, he appeased Lord Bramha and obtained a boon that no man can kill him. Thus he became powerful and went on to conquer the heavens. The Devas terrorised by him, prayed to Lords Bramha, Vishnu & Shiva to end the menace.

Since Mahishasura had a boon that no man can kill him, the trio combined their powers to create Chamundi, a woman who then killed the demon king. The temple is dedicated to this goddess.

The shrine is thought to date back to 12^th century. Hoysala, Vijayanagara and Wodeyar dynasties have contributed to the development of the temple.  The architecture of the temple is of Dravidian style and in quadrangular shape. The temple gopura (tower) has seven storeys.

Other Attractions

During the climb, a little ahead of half way, you will come across a huge monolith statue of Nandi, the bull vehicle of Lord Shiva. This is beautifully sculpted and massive; around 16 feet in height and 25 feet in length.  There are also a few stalls selling sugarcane juice, buttermilk and some snacks like freshly cut fruits or churmuri, if one wants a break.

There is also an older temple dedicated to Mahabaleshwara at the summit. The hill was earlier known as Mahabala Parvatha

One of the other attractions on top is the Mahishasura statue. This is a special place to me, as Dad refers to me as Mahishasura, in my current avatar of sporting long hair and handlebar moustache.

The top also offers a nice panoramic view of Mysore and you can spot a few palaces and landmarks.